Over the past 15 years, surfing has become a kind of obsession for me. I surf eight months a year. I travel to surf destinations for family vacations and seek (forgiving) waves in the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans. I have spent thousands of dollars on boards of all sizes and shapes. In the sport of (Hawaiian) kings, I’m a jester And yet — I suck at it. In the sport of … [Read more...]