On a drizzling, dark late afternoon a few weeks back I was running on the track that links two surfing spots, The Pass and Wategos Beach. The path travels up a flight of steps, traverses a cliff line with a beautiful view of the ocean (a view that often includes sea eagles, dolphins, and whales), then passes down a second flight of stairs onto Wategos Beach below. It’s one of … [Read more...]
Easternmost memory – surfing in the wild at the end of the continent
Here is a special story from our "Waves of Pain" collection. In a surfing world dominated by hyperbole... the west wave... the best day... the best secret spot... the best surfer... the best barrel... the best board etc this column pays homage to those not so best days in the ocean. In truth it is some of these not so best days that are the most interesting, most moving, most … [Read more...]