We all know how dangerous melanoma can be. We all know that if you spend a lot of time in the sun you are at a greater risk of contracting the dreaded skin disease. But how great is the risk? Should surfers really take greater precautions than the non-surfing population? New research provides surprising answers. Yeah. Sure. It’s obvious isn’t it. Of course surfers are in a … [Read more...]
The Cutback that Changed the World – Photo 1.
Here is the first in my selection of the most important photographs in Australian sporting history. The images are not ranked or presented in any particular order. Ranking is a subjective notion that I don't want to buy into. Each image presents a frozen moment in time that has historical significance in the Australian world of sport. Even more importantly, each image opens the … [Read more...]
Sharky morning at Wategos
The early morning surf check wasn’t promising. While the Pass was tempting with its clean, two-foot, southerly swell winding down the bank, every surfer within fifty kilometres (experts, beginners, and everything in between) was thrashing, clawing, and scratching to secure one of the few worthwhile waves on offer. No, I thought. I can’t stand it. Even if I am lucky enough to … [Read more...]
Why are some sports addictive?
My nose is gushing. My eyes are swollen - almost closed. My skin is blotchy and itchy. I am sneezing every few seconds. Allergy. Hay fever. Hence, I am waiting for my turn at the pharmacy counter for the chemist to sell me something that will reduce my misery. I look down at the array of colourful pharmaceutical goodies on display on the shelf just below the counter. What … [Read more...]
Mysteries of Surfing
I’ve been trying to learn how to surf now for around thirty years. I like to surf. No. Let’s take that a step further. I love to surf. Do I call myself a surfer? No. A surfer is an athlete who has acquired a specific qualifying level of competence and skill at the act of surfing. I am one person who has not achieved that requisite standard... but, despite loving the act of … [Read more...]