Surfing is a unique sport. It can be so enthralling… so enchanting… so addictive… that, for some surfers, it can go beyond pleasurable and become a toxic experience damaging relationships, families, career, and even health. Sociologists have called this phenomenon as going past the “stoke apex”. These surfers have become victims of what journalist William Finnegan described as … [Read more...]
Are surfers sheep?
On a drizzling, dark late afternoon a few weeks back I was running on the track that links two surfing spots, The Pass and Wategos Beach. The path travels up a flight of steps, traverses a cliff line with a beautiful view of the ocean (a view that often includes sea eagles, dolphins, and whales), then passes down a second flight of stairs onto Wategos Beach below. It’s one of … [Read more...]
Girls Can’t Surf – film review
Ever heard of a “talking heads” documentary that is funny, endearing, thrilling, witty, sad, life affirming, exciting and informative? No? Neither had I, until recently. Hang onto your boardshorts, surfboards, and sunscreen, because I’m going to let you in on a secret… involving one of the most uplifting and entertaining cinema experiences I have had in ages. It’s a film is … [Read more...]
Sportswear with a mission – Patagonia!
The store manager handed me a copy of “Let My People Go Surfing” by Patagonia’s founder, Yvon Chouinard, and said that it would give me a good foundation for understanding the company and what it stands for. While we were chatting, a well-dressed young woman approached the manager and asked if she could submit a resume because she was looking for a job. He politely accepted … [Read more...]
Ten of the coolest and craziest communities that surf!
10 – The Swiss Who knew that the Swiss surf? They do! Switzerland doesn’t even have a sea… let alone an ocean. Switzerland is completely landlocked. It’s not the kind of place one would expect to produce a fired-up surfing community! The Swiss, as a rule, locate their annual national surfing championship in Spain. The address of the head office of the Swiss Surfing … [Read more...]