The store manager handed me a copy of “Let My People Go Surfing” by Patagonia’s founder, Yvon Chouinard, and said that it would give me a good foundation for understanding the company and what it stands for. While we were chatting, a well-dressed young woman approached the manager and asked if she could submit a resume because she was looking for a job. He politely accepted … [Read more...]
Ten of the coolest and craziest communities that surf!
10 – The Swiss Who knew that the Swiss surf? They do! Swiss junior surf team. The Swiss take their surfing very seriously! Switzerland doesn’t even have a sea… let alone an ocean. Switzerland is completely landlocked. It’s not the kind of place one would expect to produce a fired-up surfing community! The Swiss, as a rule, locate their annual national surfing … [Read more...]
Meaning of Valentine’s Day? A day of commemoration for lovers of surf journalism.
First surf journalist - James Cook February 14 is most commonly associated with Valentine’s Day… or the day in which lovers declare their devotion to the special person in their life. To most of the population February 14 means red roses, chocolates and the baring of one’s soul to a secret beloved. To true sports lovers, however, February 14 is not a day of celebration, but … [Read more...]
Agony for Miki Dora
Many “Waves of Pain” stories are about merciless thrashing handed out by the ocean when it’s in an angry mood. Not all. Some come from a wholly different kind of pain. I remember thinking, oh… what a load of bullshit, the first time I heard the expression “sticks and stones will break my bones, but names will never hurt me.” To me, an emotional beating has always been way worse … [Read more...]
Surf or golf? Nah. Neither. Should have stuck by the pool.
A bloke I know was taking a quick holiday at a luxury golf resort that just happened to own its own private beach rimmed with an outer reef that had pretty good waves. Ninety-nine percent of the guests at the hotel were golf nutters (and the beach was off-limits to non-guests), so my mate, Grunter, figured that a quiet paddle with no-one else to nick any of the best waves might … [Read more...]