The Pass is one of the world’s loveliest surfing spots. Lovely for lots of reasons. It’s aesthetically beautiful. There are fewer places prettier. Golden sands. Sweeping views of the bay. The mountains in the distance. The wildlife. The rock wall that makes up The Point. The waves are often beautiful. It’s a long, often glassy, right-breaking point wave that is challenging in … [Read more...]
Surfers and melanoma – how great is the risk?
We all know how dangerous melanoma can be. We all know that if you spend a lot of time in the sun you are at a greater risk of contracting the dreaded skin disease. But how great is the risk? Should surfers really take greater precautions than the non-surfing population? New research provides surprising answers. Yeah. Sure. It’s obvious isn’t it. Of course surfers are in a … [Read more...]
The Cutback that Changed the World – Photo 1.
Here is the first in my selection of the most important photographs in Australian sporting history. The images are not ranked or presented in any particular order. Ranking is a subjective notion that I don't want to buy into. Each image presents a frozen moment in time that has historical significance in the Australian world of sport. Even more importantly, each image opens the … [Read more...]
Sharky morning at Wategos
The early morning surf check wasn’t promising. While the Pass was tempting with its clean, two-foot, southerly swell winding down the bank, every surfer within fifty kilometres (experts, beginners, and everything in between) was thrashing, clawing, and scratching to secure one of the few worthwhile waves on offer. No, I thought. I can’t stand it. Even if I am lucky enough to … [Read more...]
Why are some sports addictive?
My nose is gushing. My eyes are swollen - almost closed. My skin is blotchy and itchy. I am sneezing every few seconds. Allergy. Hay fever. Hence, I am waiting for my turn at the pharmacy counter for the chemist to sell me something that will reduce my misery. I look down at the array of colourful pharmaceutical goodies on display on the shelf just below the counter. What … [Read more...]