The ocean often plays the role of a trickster as two young women who tried their luck at the Hawaiian North Shore “experts only” surfing spot, Gas Chambers, found out. Cara and Ana paddled out a two person surf kayak at this shallow-breaking, reef-bottomed barrel generator with the gruesome name on what they thought was one of the North Shore’s mild and manageable days. The … [Read more...]
When being a proven waterman is not enough!
When he told his story in his own surfing magazine, Doug Lees described himself as an average Joe staring death in the face. In truth, Doug is no average Joe. In his sporting life, his business life and in his personal life his achievements, (and even more importantly, the manner of his achievements), show him to be a very special character. This character rarely stands back … [Read more...]
An American midnight surf – that goes very wrong!
After a few beers at a local bar, a bloke called Rob and his good mate decided to have a mid-night surf. When they arrived at California’s Topanga point break Rob’s mate chickened out and decided to video Rob’s session rather than get wet himself. Rob grabbed his trusty little thruster and headed off for the water. The moon was full and the lights from the Pacific Coast … [Read more...]
No Respect!
After a week in Sydney visiting a sick Mum in hospital I was excited about getting back to my home beach today. First impressions on checking out the break were hopeful rather than encouraging. Two to three foot looked fine after the dead flat I had left a week-ago. The howling off-shore, on the other hand, promised to make paddling hell. The day itself was dark, cold and … [Read more...]
Death Wish at Fairy Bower
Fairy Bower - sissy by name, gnarly by nature Once in a blue moon the surf on Sydney’s northern beaches gets so big that it is virtually impossible to go surfing. Just about the last rideable spot on a huge day is the point break near Manly incongruously known as Fairy Bower. If the swell gets up and over eighteen or twenty feet, as a general rule, “The Bower” is the only … [Read more...]